Many routes on the Main Wall start on the Main Ledge.
For the Main Wall, take the use trail that goes directly at the cliff just after the bouldering area. To get to the East Wall, walk down the trail until you feel as if you are passing the cliff, and at a right-hand turn, take the use trail at the apex of the turn. There are several use trails through the brush and talus at the cliff base, and selecting the correct one is not always easy. The trail leads from this parking area to the north through the walk-in campground, continues past some stellar bouldering areas, and then to the cliff. This parking area is shared by the campground, hikers walking the Pony Express Trail, and a multitude of climbers. On weekends, the parking will be full, so be prepared to walk a couple hundred extra yards. They will have you towed, and this parking issue has been a source of friction between the homeowners and climbers/hikers. If the parking is full, park down the road near Strawberry Creek, or better yet, drive back toward Strawberry and park in the pull-out alongside US 50, but please, do not park in the resident's driveways. There is a paved turnaround with a limited amount of parking.
Cross the American River, and then at the fork take a left. Turn in to the Strawberry Lodge, and follow the road that leads back toward the cliff. From the Sacramento area, take US 50 East to Placerville, then 40 more miles to Strawberry. From South Lake Tahoe, take US 50 West for about 18 miles, watch for the community of Strawberry on your left a couple of miles past Twin Bridges. Getting ThereThe Leap is 18 miles southwest of South Lake Tahoe on Highway 50, and 40 miles east of Placerville. It has been reported that there are a lot of rattlesnakes in the area, but I have yet to see one. The Leap is featured in the videos Masters of Stone III, with a free-solo by Dan Osman (RIP), and Pure Force Masters of Stone 4, in which Osman speed-solos Bear's Reach, a 3-pitch 5.7, in 4 minutes and change. But some of the routes, like Fantasia, put up by RR himself, are waaay runout, with moderate (well, 5.9 is moderate for some) climbing. There are many other features, cracks and flakes, that make most of the routes protectable. From the road, the cliff looks steep and blank, but when you arrive at the base, you find that while it is steep, there are holds literally everywhere, in the form of extruded dikes. The Leap has a long climbing tradition, with first ascents by Royal Robbins, Warren Harding, Steve Roper, TM Herbert, Bob Kamps, Ken Wilson, Dan Osman, Tom Higgins, Eric Beck (at either end of the social spectrum there lies a leisure class), Galen Rowell, Jeff Lowe, and many others. There are a number of other worthy formations in the area, and just down the road a few miles are the Phantom Spires and Sugarloaf, home of Tony Yaniro's breakthrough 5.13c, The Grand Illusion. The climbing at the leap can be divided as follows: The East Wall, home to many fine moderates, the Central Wall, the Main Wall, also home to many fine moderates as well as Traveler Buttress of Fifty Classic Climbs of North America fame, the West Wall, the Hogsback, and the Lower Buttress. The rock is perfect, the approaches short, and the best routes often crowded on a weekend. Royal Robbins once ran a rock-climbing school here, and my sandwich-eatin' brother-in-law claims his Uncle Scully, who formerly was employed by the USFS, ran him off for operating without a permit. The Leap is nearly 600' tall at the main wall, and has quality routes from 5.3 to 5.12c. Lovers Leap is a large granitic formation alongside Highway 50 looming above the community of Strawberry.
#Lovers leap full#
For full details, visit the Lovers Leap page on the Eldorado National Forest page.Īlternatively, contact: Susan Yasuda, wildlife biologist, at 53. OverviewNesting restrictions are in place from April 21 through September 30 each year.
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